I had a farm in Romania. Literally and figuratively. Literally, it was three parcels of undeveloped land that my grandfather deeded to my father. Figuratively, it’s an invisible bond to a culture and a heritage I know little about and the inexplicable, unseen forces that seemed to be pulling me toward it.
The “undeveloped” part allowed me to make a claim for restitution on land that was nationalized in 1946 by the post-war Communist government of Romania. It began as a lark, but it became so much more.
In 1993, two years after our father had passed away, my sister and I took our mother on a roots trip to Eastern Europe. We visited Budapest and Vienna, and included a trip to Mom’s hometown of Munkacz (formerly Czechoslavakia, now Ukraine) and a side trip to Livada, just over the Hungarian border into Romania, where my father had been born. Crossing the border, you arrive in Satu Mare, a bustling city with still-beautiful gardens and buildings. As you drive up the country road toward Livada, known to my father by the Hungarian name Sárköz, time stops, and you’re transported back to the Romania my father left behind in 1938. No traffic lights, bicycles and carts drawn by horses.
Finding someone of a certain age who still spoke Hungarian led us to what had once been the family farm. Curious, the locals began to fill the quiet residential street. There wasn’t much to see, just a mill that was processing grain that grew somewhere in the distance and a house that was being used as an office—was that the family house? No one knew for sure. A woman came forward saying that she owned the mill and wanted to buy the land from the government. Could we help? She carefully wrote out her name and address. Then an apple-cheeked old woman wearing a babuska on her head came up to me and said in Hungarian, “I knew your grandfather, I prayed for him.” That was it, and even while I doubted that what she said was true on the day in May, 1944 when the trains deported the Jewish community of Livada and the surrounding areas to the camps at Auschwitz, I did know that I was not done with this place.
It was the Austro-Hungarian Empire when my father was born. I used to love to tell my friends that my father was from Transylvania—which is where Livada really is—because of the legendary Count Dracula. Fast forward to 2005, and there I was again as part of a tour group that was exploring Romania by bus. I noticed a lunch stop in Satu Mare on the tour itinerary and asked the tour leader if we could drive past my family’s farm.
So there I was holding the piece of paper on which Anna had carefully written out the address in 1993. This time I found a bustling business that made building supplies like decorative cement blocks to make fences and curved roofing tiles. It was not lost on me that I come from a long line of architects and home builders on both sides of my family. Once again, I was asked about making a claim so that the owners of this thriving business could buy the land from me.
In preparation for the trip, I went through a file of my father’s papers and found fragile documents on thin, onion-skin paper, type-written and embellished in fountain pen. I also found years of documentation of his and my uncles’ efforts to make restitution claims through both the U.S. and the Canadian (where my uncles lived) governments. I made copies of the papers that looked important, and one night during the trip I asked our guide, Catalin, for his translation skills. What he translated were deeds to specific parcels of land.
The return visit to the family farm fueled my interest in claiming the land, so when I got home in early November, I hit the internet in earnest. Two weeks later, I hit paydirt—a law allowing foreign nationals to make claims for restitution on “undeveloped farmland.” This law in question had already expired on September 30, 2005, but in the small print I found that it had been extended to the end of November. I now had two weeks.
The U.S. Embassy in Bucharest forwarded a list of recommended attorneys, but none were based in the region where my claim would need to be made. One actually asked for a retainer of $10,000 in U.S. dollars for what I still considered a whim!
Then the inexplicable, unseen forces began to work their magic. During the trip, our group met members of a youth organization called Oter, which is dedicated to bringing Judaism back to Romania. The parents of these young people grew up under Communism with no religion, but their children are determined to reinstate their Jewish culture and its customs. On our last night in Bucharest, the president of the organization joined us for dinner. Online I discovered that Oter had a chapter in Satu Mare, so I sent an email, and within minutes, was connected with that chapter and an email with the name of the head of the Jewish community in Satu Mare: a lawyer. He was, and is still, not internet savvy, but he did have a cell phone, he spoke English and he has a sister in San Diego. Unseen forces converging.
I called him late at night, which was the start of the day his time. By the time I got to my office that morning, he had faxed a handwritten document in Romanian that I needed to have notarized giving him power of attorney to act on my behalf in making the claim. It took an entire day and nearly 100 miles of driving to get all the documents together, and on November 29, 2005, one day before the law expired again, my claim was entered for three parcels of undeveloped farmland at the office of the magistrate in the town of Livada, county of Adrian, Romania.
Time passed, to the point where I pretty much forgot about the claim except when someone asked for an update. And I would tell them there simply wasn’t one. Until one morning in May of 2010 when I received a phone call the sister in San Diego relaying a message. The title to the land was mine, and the land was being sold.
After much prodding, I finally received an email answering my question about what I could do for the Jewish community of Satu Mare that would be meaningful, using the money. The Decebal Street synagogue, built in 1893, needed a parochet, the curtain that covers the Aron Kodesh that holds the Torah scrolls. Apparently, there once was one but it was gone, stolen long ago. Would I like to take care of this?
I was referred to a company in New York to make it with a dedication to my father and his family embroidered in the cloth. I placed the order, and it hit me that I didn’t want to ship it to Romania. Rather, I wanted to bring it there myself.
I also researched programs in Romania that would benefit from a donation and was referred to Children in Need, a program of the Social and Medical Assistance Department (SMAD) of the Federation of Jewish Communities of Romania, based in Bucharest. After much correspondence, we identified a program that aids students who have aged out of the organization’s youth programs and are pursuing university studies despite financial hardships. Ten university students were selected from the program, each with their own unique story, who would receive a small windfall to continue their education. It made me wonder if they would feel like they won the lottery. I certainly would.
My lawyer wanted to hold a celebration in the synagogue and bring in a rabbi and a klezmer band for the occasion. I told him I would like to bring the parochet personally and attend the event, mutually settling on October 3, the Sunday following Sukkot. This dedication would take place in the synagogue which is not used very often (for one thing it is very costly to heat in the winter). In fact, the last time it was used in earnest was in May of 2004 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the deportation of the Jews of the area to Auschwitz. As part of that commemoration, a Holocaust memorial on the grounds of the synagogue was dedicated. My grandparents and my aunt and her husband and son were among those remembered that day. How fitting that the next such event would memorialize them all. On May 19, 1944, six trains with approximately 3300 persons departed for Auschwitz. In total 18863 Jews were deported from the area. A total of 14440 Jews from Satu Mare were killed during the war.
On September 29, 2010, I took off for Europe, carrying the curtain with the dedication in memory of my grandparents, father, uncles and aunt in my very overweight carryon. I arrived the next morning in Frankfurt where a client was performing in a club that evening. The next morning, I flew to Bucharest and on to Satu Mare, arriving at the tiny airport in the early evening.
Following the subdued Shabbat morning services held in a small prayer room, we repaired to the main sanctuary to hang the parochet. It was very moving to see the large curtain I had carried dwarfed by the height of the room.
Then I was taken on an excursion into the countryside. First stop was Livada, aka Sárköz, which in the Hungarian of my father means “between the mud.” The Romanian translation is more sublime: Livada means “orchard.” While the streets seemed more even and paved, the town looked essentially the same to me as it did in 1993 and 2005, though the building products factory appeared to have grown into a cottage industry. This time, I didn’t knock on the door because I knew I couldn’t claim the land that had their factory on it, and they seemed to be doing well without owning the land on which they are operate their business.
The next day, the entire community came to the celebration. The gentleman from the Children in Need program came in from Bucharest and presented me with a list of the students that are being endowed with a little background on each of them. There were speeches and blessings and prayers from the Rabbi—after being acknowledged as the “sponsor,” I was coaxed into saying a few words too—followed by an hour of joyous music from a seven-piece group comprising five siblings called the “Is…Real Klezmer Band.”
The next morning I flew out by way of Bucharest to London, and as I got on the plane in Satu Mare, two women came up to me to thank me for the wonderful concert they had attended the day before. Just recently I received letters from two of the students telling me what the money they received will mean to their education and their lives.
I hope my father is smiling. I certainly am.
